Isle of Capri ~ Romancing Italy
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Nov 3, 2006

Isle of Capri


I knew better but I still came. This little island off the Sorrentino coast is a regular tourist trap. The place, even in the off season is swarming with Americans, English, Dutch, Japanese…where are the Italians?

The hydrofoil let us off at the marina and we took the funicular up to the old center. There was a heart stopping moment when I realized at the top that I had left my camera at the tourist information office. I rode the funicular back down….and then back up…with the camera.

If it weren’t for Anne and her running commentary on various things we saw, I would have gone batty.

I’ll give the island this…it is beautiful. I could see someone filming King Kong here… what with the tall steep cliffs shrouded with clouds at the top, giving it a mysterious jungle like feel. It was very humid and surprisingly warm….just like how a gorilla would like it.

Everywhere there were shops, filled with things a local would never buy. I am dying here. We catch the bus to go to AnaCapri on the other side of the island and the road takes us literally to the edge and beyond. Portions of the road are supported by columns, suspended in mid air. It is exhilarating to look out the window and over the edge. This makes me think of another thing that I am not doing on this leg of my trip…I am not DOING. I am just looking and am becoming lethargic and bored.

Anne comes to my rescue again. She is game to walk back to Capri instead of catching the bus. We follow an insane set of stone steps, each a different height, down the side of the mountain, through vine covered archways, passing lemon orchards and grapevines, smelling different types of unusual shaped and colored flowers. We arrive at the bottom, pleased at our little adventure and trembling, not with the excitement as one would hope but….because our legs were now liquid mush and we just couldn’t stand to walk another stair.

Now, with a few hours to kill, we dutifully walked through several of the stores, before finally settling down at a cafĂ© to just watch people. The hands on the clock inched its way around making me wonder if time doesn’t really sometimes stand still. Then rain came, beautiful, large drops of warm rain fell and cleared the streets of most of the foreign and the harbor took on a different personality for a small window of time: Quiet yet still alive, cobblestones glistening in the waning light and colors turning in for the night.

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